The dreaded Jag rear hub – 2

My initial attempt at removing the rear hubs ended in failure.

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More research. I called the guys at the Daimler and Jaguar Spare Parts Club.  They had the same Churchill tool I’d used earlier and as a member I could borrow it. An alternative suggestion was to take the axle to a engineering firm and have them press the hub off. It sounded so easy, but how? The oil seal retaining bolts looked inaccessible to me.

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Retaining bolts (and nuts)

During a long search through the  Jag-Lovers forums, I found a brief reference about someone using a Dremel tool to cut screwdriver slots into the ends of the oil seal retaining bolts, and removing them that way. I wasn’t convinced that this would work, but at least it was a way forward.

Interestingly, the Service manuals I have seen consistently show the bolts reversed from how they are on my axles, and I assume others, or this approach wouldn’t work. As I had already damaged the right side axle, I decided to try this approach on that side.

I have a small air cut-off tool which I used to cut the slots. I considered buying a Dremel tool but decided to save time and money by using what was to hand.

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Air cut-off tool

I first got the nut freed up (it and the bolt rotating together). Even this required a sharp crack on the end of the 3/8 drive socket ratchet, which only just fitted, to get things moving. Then, as carefully as possible, I cut a slot in the end of the most accessible bolt. Luckily there was enough of the thread protruding to make this reasonably straightforward. With a bit of practise I got better at this.

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Screwdriver slot cut in end of bolt

With a ring spanner on the nut, locking it, I began the process of screwing the bolt through the nut. Let’s just say it was painful and I resorted to an impact driver to get the bolt through the nut. Eventually success! I don’t know how long this took,  40 minutes at least, but it was shaping up to be a long slow afternoon!

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Ring spanner stops nut from rotating

Onto the next one, again being super careful cutting the slot. Unbelievable!. Two minutes later the nut was off.  Maybe a bit longer for the third one, but not much. The fourth took a while but it was in behind the brake carrier, and was more fiddly, so maybe 15 minutes. All done!

Next step (now way ahead of expected schedule) was to work my way around the back of the disk with a block of wood and copper hammer. It needed a few solid whacks, but I could tell it was moving and before long the hub and axle shaft were free.

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Hub and axle in the process of parting company

At this point I decided not to push my luck any further and headed for the fridge!

This approach now seemed so straightforward that I had no hesitation in following it on the other side. This was much faster, with only one stubborn bolt taking some time. 

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Hub and axle cleaned up

I took the hub and axle assemblies to a workshop where they were separated with a press.

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Success, at last!

 The right hub only required about two tons of pressure, I must have been nearly there! The left side (which I hadn’t tried to remove) needed about 20 tons to get it off the shaft. This left me happy with my decision not to try and remove it at home. They also cleaned up the damaged threads for me.  So no permanent damage done, as far as I can tell at this stage.

4 thoughts on “The dreaded Jag rear hub – 2

    1. Yep, I’m glad it’s over. I also considered taking the whole diff assembly to a garage, but the skills needed to deal with these old vehicles are in short supply and no one was that keen to tackle it.

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  1. Hi
    I live in Norway and a friend have a MK2 1963 modell left hand drive. He ask me if I could fix the wiper on the front window, it`s completly dead. I find the schematic you have here but you have + going to earth, i was nearly shoure he have – to earth. Do you now where I could get the schematic for this car?

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  2. Hi Oyvind, I’m pretty sure all the Mk2s were positive earth when they left the factory. However, many have been converted to negative earth over time to allow for modern radios etc. I converted mine to negative earth, all that was required was to swap the coil and ammeter leads and re-flash the generator. So the schematic on my site should be fine even if the vehicle has been converted.

    I have a schematic for the LHD models which I can send you, but it looks pretty identical to the RHD one as far as I can tell. Let me know and good luck!

    Cheers Phil

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